When Prada Borrows Kolhapuris and Forgets the Maker

When Prada Borrows Kolhapuris and Forgets the Maker

Prada’s Kolhapuri-inspired sandals highlight a bigger issue: global luxury profits off Indian craft while local artisans fight for fair recognition and support

Mansvini Kaushik

Jun 24, 2025

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Fashion

At the Prada Spring/Summer 2026 show in Milan, models walked the runway in flat, brown leather sandals featuring a toe loop—a design unmistakably similar to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappal. Despite the sandal’s deep roots in Indian craftsmanship, the brand made no reference to its origins in show notes or press materials, igniting widespread criticism from Indian viewers, fashion commentators, and social media users. Critics argued that while Prada’s collection celebrated “a shift of attitude—dismantling of meaning, and dismantling power,” it overlooked the power and meaning embedded in the Kolhapuri’s cultural heritage.

Social media erupted with calls for recognition, with many pointing out that this was not the first time Western luxury brands had borrowed from Indian fashion without credit. The controversy deepened when it was revealed that Prada had even distributed leather “ring” tokens to guests—mirroring the Kolhapuri’s signature toe loop—yet still failed to acknowledge the sandal’s Indian roots.

The Kolhapuri chappal business was valued at around ₹9 crore in 2020, with over 10,000 artisans engaged in production, primarily in Kolhapur’s Subhash Nagar, as reported by Times of India. Approximately 600,000 pairs are produced annually, with about 30% exported to international markets.

Kolhapur’s Makers: GI Tag, Tradition, and Ongoing Struggles

The Kolhapuri chappal is more than a fashion accessory—it is a symbol of Indian heritage, meticulously handcrafted by artisans in Maharashtra’s Kolhapur region since at least the 12th century. These sandals are celebrated for their durability, hand-stitched beauty, and unique design. In 2019, the Kolhapuri chappal was awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, legally recognizing its origin in specific districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka and aiming to protect the craft from imitation.

While luxury brands have often been criticized for appropriation, some Indian companies are working to empower Kolhapuri artisans:

Vaarsa: This slow fashion label collaborates with local communities to produce authentic Kolhapuri chappals, paying artisans the highest industry wages and aiming to revive the tradition for future generations.
Korakari: Founded by Dileep More, Korakari has expanded from a single artisan family to supporting over 300 families. The company pays artisans two to three times more than typical wages, supplies free raw materials, and introduces modern tools to improve efficiency and quality.
Kalapuri Foundation: Partnering with the Central Leather Research Institute, Kalapuri supports 200 families and focuses on modernizing design, improving comfort, and upskilling artisans to ensure year-round livelihoods.

These efforts are helping to sustain the craft, improve working conditions, and attract younger generations back to the trade.

Many artisans struggle to sustain their craft, with younger generations seeking more stable employment and established tanneries shutting down. The GI tag, while symbolically important, has not fully shielded them from economic pressures or appropriation by global brands.

The Prada-Kolhapuri episode has reignited a vital debate about the responsibilities of global fashion houses. As traditional Indian designs gain international attention, should luxury brands be required to credit and compensate the artisans whose work inspires them? Would direct collaborations, financial support, or public acknowledgment be enough?

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Mansvini Kaushik

Mansvini Kaushik is the Editor-in-Chief of Indulge Newsroom, the editorial division of Indulge Global. A seasoned business and investigative journalist, she brings years of experience from Forbes India, where she honed her craft in high-impact storytelling. With a deep-rooted passion for luxury and culture, Mansvini founded Candle Magazine before taking the helm at Indulge Newsroom. She now leads the publication with a vision to redefine luxury journalism in India.